Friday, February 18, 2005

Biscuits in the Morning Sun


 Posted by Hello

I work a bit later today, so I had time, after I sent the wife off to work with her tea and her sandwich, to do some dishes and sharpen my baking craft.

I am a fan of Alton Brown. His Food Network show, Good Eats, is literally the only show on television that I give a rat's ass about. He cooks, he explains scientific and historical aspects of cooking, and he's a bit of a nerd. Therefore, I consider him a spiritual leader in this dark and confusing world.

That said, I decided to execute his Phase III Biscuit recipe, as found in his I'm Just Here for More Food. I have been endeavoring to deepen and broaden my kitchen-lore, particularly by mastering basic techniques and making things from scratch that most of the USA now buys at the store. Biscuits exemplify this. More people make biscuits from scratch here in the South than in other regions, I'll venture to state, but it's an under-practiced art form nonetheless.

Here in North Cackalacky, one sees a panoply of self-rising flours at the grocery store (on the other hand, in San Diego, self-rising flour is not easy to find at all). Every brand I've seen has a biscuit recipe on the bag. Unfortunately, I've gotten nothing but forgettable biscuits out of that resource. So I hauled out AB's book and carried out his technique. It's a wet, sloppy batter (I can't truthfully call it dough), and a biscuit cutter is useless; I just plopped scoopfuls of the stuff onto the baking sheet. Seventeen minutes later, I pulled from the oven the best biscuits I've ever had. Fluffy, moist, flavorful (the subtle forces of salt, fat and tangy buttermilk were in balance like a tripod of golden-brown goodness). I'm very pleased indeed. Unfortunately, their glory will not keep. As Robert Frost wrote, "Nothing gold can stay."

5 comments:

Mr. Waterhouse said...

Dude, that sounds heavenly. May I say that your prose this morning is giving me great hope for the human race? Golden brown tripod of goodness? Rave on my holy fool!

Bryan said...

nicely done, betty crocker!

jaibone said...

I'd love it if you'd forward that biscuit recipe to jaibone@yahoo.com

Anonymous said...

How about some artery clogging sausage gravy to go with the biscuits? Or perhaps some homemade preserves. Damn it, you made me hungry!

Sleepwalker said...

Drop biscuits are the cat's ass. Easier than the cutter kind, and covered with crispy golden brown nubs (or tripods, if you prefer).

I myself have been converted by the recipe in Cook's Illustrated, but you have to follow it exactly to achieve biscuit nirvana.